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Right Between the Thighs
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 27
votes
Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
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Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Between the Thighs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, March 2022 |
| Page Views: | 1,149 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Mar 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a 2-pitch route that diverges from the first pitch of Right Between the Eyes. The second pitch achieves a fairly spectacular position as it traverses across the exposed headweall directly beneath The Chair.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb Right Between the Eyes until about two thirds of the way along the traverse, then reach up to a bolt and climb straight up over a bulge on jugs up to a broad ledge. There is a 2-bolt anchor on the right side of the ledge.
Pitch 2: (5.8) Climb up a corner to a bolt, taking care when passing a bit of loose rock to the right of the bolt, then move left at a second bolt onto the face. Tiptoe left across the slim ledge past 4 more bolts, then climb straight up on good holds past one more bolt up to the big ledge at the base of The Chair, where you'll find a 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor.
3-pitch Option: (This gives you the added bonus of climbing the entire Right Between the Eyes route, and you end up with a 3-pitch route!)
Pitch 1: Climb the entire first pitch of Right Between the Eyes (5.7) to the 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Traverse back right, then up past the bolt on Right Between the Thighs up to the big ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Climb the last pitch of Right Between the Thighs.
Descent: With a 60-meter rope, 2 rappels are required to get down. Rappel 100 feet to the Right Between the Eyes 2-bolt anchor, then rappel 60 feet to the ground.To avoid getting your rope tangled up in the tree near the Right Between the Eyes anchor, throw your rope to the left (when looking down).
A note of caution: If you attempt to make one double-rope rappel all the way to the ground (160 feet), chances are your rope will get hung up in the tree near the Right Between the Eyes anchor when you pull it.
Protection
Pro: Double set of CDs from .3 to 3 inches, plus one 4-inch CD.
At the cave at the start of Right Between the Eyes, you can build an anchor with a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot. If the belayer extends their tie-in, they can lean back and watch the leader on most of the first pitch. For the rest of the pro on the first pitch, bring a double set of CDs from .3 to 1.5 inches, plus one 3-inch (#3 Camalot) piece.
Here's the pro I used for pitch 2 in order of placement:
#.4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, Bolt, #2 Camalot, 5 bolts in a row, #1 Camalot, Bolt (then unclip #1 Camalot), #.75 Camalot
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