Dance of the Just Plain Folk
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Stewart Green, Peter Brody, Martha Morris, '98 |
Page Views: | 524 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Sam Chalkley on Mar 14, 2022 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
I am posting this because it desperately needs more traffic. It has four quality pitches of slab climbing in a remote setting.
P1: take a 9- pitch (2 bolts) to the left or a 11b pitch straight up the face. This is easily identifiable by the large chain at the 2nd bolt. Either pitch is shaded at sun rise but gets full sun by mid-morning.
P2: (10c) cut right from the anchor and follow 9 bolts over 140' of excellent edging and smears.
P3 (10a) climb straight up the slab loosely following a water streak. This pitch is slightly lower angled than the last. Water was running down the streak when we did it, and it was 50/50 whether or not the crimpy flakes outside the streak would hold "pull down not out." This pitch will likely get harder as more of these are ripped off.
P4 (10b (8R)) move up on easy ground to some low quality kitty litter, and make a committing move to clip the first bolt. Then pull the bulge, and scramble to the top.
From the highest point on the dome, head east, and there is a coldshut and a new bolt for a short rap.
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