Entre Cristales Y Cóndores

With Atardecer hosting the mega classics Al Centro Y Adentro and Doña Devora Dedos, it will come as no surprise that another heavy hitter was hiding in plain sight right around the corner awaiting to be unlocked. ECYC consists of mostly solid 5.11 finger cracks with a few harder sections that are easily aidable. The crux pitch 10 was freed in February 2024 by Siebe Vanhee and was given the suggested grade of 5.13b but mere mortals can still enjoy free climbing 95% of this spectacular route at a more reasonable 5.12- C1. Go get it. 

Pitch 1: 5.10, 30m - Begin by climbing the blocky system 30 feet left of Al Centro Y Adentro and right of the giant chock-stone gulley. Loose 5.6 gets you to the top of a pedestal feature; then clip 2 bolts through the crimpy face leading to the bolted anchor. 

*Via Ferrata [fixed line] across loose ledge system to base of obvious dihedral to splitter finger crack.

Pitch 2: 5.12- (5.10, A0), 15m **** - A short pitch; steep finger crack to 12- Houdini stemming dihedral protected by small gear. RPs could be used but not required. Gear belay on ledge using stoppers to save cams for next pitch.  

Pitch 3: 5.11, 45m ***** [Lazer beam crack] - Finger splitter forever. Will eat however many cams you throw at it. Bring the whole rack. Bolted anchor at stance below perfect hand crack. 

Pitch 4: 5.10, 50m *** - Slammer #2s to varied dihedral. Finish by pulling roof on the right side which leads to a comfy stance with bolted anchor.

Pitch 5: 5.7, 55m - Same as Al Centro pitch 6 to shared bolted anchor. Rope drag is really terrible. Consider double length slings and alpines on pieces or solo as high as you can. [Follower should be prepared to self belay or micro trax if the rope drag is too bad] 

*From this anchor, Al Centro's pitch 7 climbs up and left and ECYC goes right into the dihedral.

Pitch 6: 5.11-, 35m *** - Step right and clip 2 bolts in obvious dihedral. Don't pass up gear opportunities along the way. Clip one more bolt on the way to hollow but increasingly solid hand crack flake. Step right at end of hand crack to access bolted anchor on sloping ledge. 

Pitch 7: 5.11+, 35m ***** [Condorito crack] - Flip a coin for the lead on this one! Varied hand and finger crack leads to spectacular, arcing .4 finger splitter finish with just barely enough foot edges to keep it 5.11. 

Pitch 8: 5.11-, 40m **** [Duck tale pitch] - Follow finger crack then clip first 4 bolts on the duck bill pitch. Long alpine on the 4th bolt then fire directly up face above, along arete. Bolted anchor. 

Pitch 9: 5.11-, 50m *** - Obvious what you are aiming for. Extend your pieces (Bring the 120s). 3 bolts help guide the way. After turning corner, head straight up through short finger crack. Optional belay at stance with small bush (5.10b to here). Continue up then left through roof feature over a big, hollow flake. Do not place gear in the Jewels flake and be cautious placing gear in the roof. Bolted anchor. 

Pitch 10: 5.13b (or C1), 30m ***** [Vuelo del Condor] - Unbelievable overhanging headwall splitter! What you came here for. Hand traverse right from anchor to gain main crack. Consider back cleaning your first couple pieces. The pitch starts with hand pods and ends with steep .4s with no feet. Keep it together or be prepared to fly with the Condors. Double rack to #2 (no stoppers) with as many .5-.75 as you want to carry (heavy on the .75s). Bolted anchor. (If you are onsighting this grade, a double rack up to hand sizes with triple .4-.75 will probably work for you but we found the ideal rack might be closer to 4-5x .5 and 4-6x .75).

Pitch 11: 5.12-, 30m ***** [Tres Joyas] - Possibly the best pitch of the route: Thoughtful and cruxy lie-backing on the edge of the world abruptly ends at face with one last techy crux protected by a bolt. You've made it when you hit the crystal jug; don't blow it! Bolted anchor. 

Bonus pitch 12: Choose your own adventure for one more pitch on one of many cracks leading to La Cumbre. Alternatively, walk right and follow cairns to the summit. (Check out the view from the summit of Pared Del Tiempo)

Go up the gully to Atardecer. Starts 30 feet left of Al Centro Y Adentro

• If not solid at 5.11 crack or if planning to aid crux, 4X .4 - .75 wouldn't be the worst idea. A second set of finger sized stoppers could alleviate the need for trips and quads.

Descent: (multiple options) The bolted anchors (up to pitch 9) on this route are not set for rappel with the intention of using the standard rappel of Atardecer which is Al Centro. The last 3 pitches have a dedicated rappel line.

Option 1: If you summit Atardecer (Cerro Laguna, or Pared Del Tiempo), follow cairns from the summit to the start of the standard Al Centro raps (or choose option 2 if there are parties on Al Centro)

Option 2: If not summiting or wanting to rappel after pitch 11, top out onto huge terrace above last pitch anchor and walk climbers right ~25 feet to a cairn marking a handline leading to the top rappel anchor. 

1. A rope stretching 61m rappel (knot your ends!) straight down leads to a rappel anchor on the slab below the crux pitch. When you are at the crux anchor, your rope ends should appear to be about a foot from touching the slab to reach. If unsure, stop short and rappel from crux anchor. You may have to swing a little to reach anchor.

2. A 55m rappel down and hard climbers right leads to a bolted rappel anchor on the blank slab 25 feet below a 2 foot roof feature. This anchor is hard to see until you are almost on top of it.

3. A 50m rappel down and slightly climbers right leads to an anchor on the lip next to sizeable ledge. 

4. A 60m rappel will put you on the big ledge at the start of the 5.7 pitch. 

*Scramble to the top of Al Centro's pitch 5 and follow the Al Centro raps to the ground. (3 more raps)

5. 60m rappel to ledge on arete with 3 bolts (2 fixe rappel hangers).

6. 40m rappel to anchor under roof. Easy to miss if you aren't paying attention!

7. 60m rap to the ground.

***Easy bail options (from the bottom):

-before the top of pitch 3, you will need to leave carabiners/bail gear.

-from top of pitch 3: Climb directly to the right and around the corner to access Al Centro's pitch 3 anchor.

-from top of pitch 4: Climb 30 feet up and right to access Al Centro's pitch 5 anchor.

-from top of pitch 6: scramble 15 feet left to Al Centro anchor.

-from top of pitch 7: climb 15 feet up and left to Al Centro anchor.

-from top of pitch 8: climb pitch 10 of Al Centro to rappel anchor (or leave bail gear and rappel to Al Centro pitch 8 anchor).

-from top of pitch 9: (no rappel rings) 10m rappel straight down to access anchor 2 of above mentioned dedicated rappel line.

-from top of pitch 10: 35m rappel straight down to access anchor 2 of above mentioned dedicated rappel line.

***ECYC crosses Al Centro Y Adentro twice and shares the first 4 bolts on the Duck Bill pitch. Both routes can be broken into 3 distinct sections which can be climbed in any of the following combinations:

Bottom:

-Climb either pitch 1-4 of ECYC or pitch 1-5 of ACYA

Middle:

-Climb either pitch 5-7 of ECYC or pitch 6-8 of ACYA

-Climb either pitch 8 (duck tale) of ECYC or pitch 9 (duck bill) of ACYA

Top:

-Climb either pitch 9-11 of ECYC (5.13 or 5.11 C1) or pitch 10-12 of ACYA (5.11a)