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Pistol Squat
5.11d,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
FA: Jordan Katz, Ian Kirk, 2022
Ohio
> Central Ohio
> Marne Rd
> E Poison Ivy Wall ("T…
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
A good-sized jump start to a jug gets things going to an early crux pulling onto the face above. Head diagonally up and right toward the large crack and follow it up through some bulges. More moderate but sustained and varied climbing through the middle leads to a final cruxy sequence up top.
Full length route that goes to the top, and mostly stays dry year-round, although the start hold and the top can be a bit wet when there has been a lot of rain, or the groundwater is really running heavy.
Location
Far left side of Poison Ivy Wall, immediately next to a small sapling growing in the middle of the trail. Starts at the far left side of the large cave, about 6 feet left of a large crack in the roof.
Same jump start as Reach for you Dreams, but traverses up-and-right immediately after. A well-placed cheater stone on the ground can take some of the sting out of the jump start.
Protection
10-12 bolts plus 2 bolted anchors with leaver biners
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