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The Best Route in Rhode Island
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 47
votes
Routes in The Draw Pile.
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All My Hexes Live in Texas S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Best Route in Rhode Island, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Entertainment Tonight S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Full Hindsight S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hindsight is 2020 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moral Ambiguity S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Morgan Freeman's Voice S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Re-Gifting S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Reverse Cowgirl S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spontaneous Conga Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stevie Wander S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thornbush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thoughts and Pryers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walking the Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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With a Bullet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 63 ft (19 m) |
| GPS: | 32.32441, -110.70657 |
| FA: | Kemper Brightman, Eric Richard |
| Page Views: | 857 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Kemper Brightman on Feb 18, 2022 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This late addition climbs a long neglected section of wall on the farthest right side of the Draw Pile. Stem and climb a crack for the first three bolts, making use of crimps and delicate footwork to ease the difficulty. Take a brief bivy on the dusty ledge before committing to the next crux, involving a deep sidepull pocket, high foot and small yet comfortable edges. From here, mantle your way up lower angle terrain, before clipping the last bolt and solving one final crux.
Shout out to EFR for the pre-cleaning on this route and the visiting climbers who stated "this would be the best route in Rhode Island".
Location
This is the farthest right route at the Draw Pile (Main Wall). On a white section of wall, you'll find bolts just left of a right facing crack. Route starts directly across from the tree and ends before intersecting with the crack routes that come in from the right.
Protection
11 Quickdraws (9 bolts + LOA)
This route ends at an anchor in the middle of the upper face. It's possible to join Two Is Not As Good As One for a couple of bolts and continue to the top of the cliff if desired.
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