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The North Face
AI3-4 Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Mount Robson
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Emperor Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 Steep Snow |
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Kain Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3 Steep Snow |
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North Face, The AI3-4 Steep Snow |
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Patterson Couloir T AI3 Steep Snow |
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Roof Glacier Hourglass By-Pass Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 Steep Snow |
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South Face/Schwartz Ledges T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2-3 Steep Snow X |
| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7500 ft (2273 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | August 9, 1963, (Patrick Callis, Dan Davis) |
| Page Views: | 1,169 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Tommy D on Jan 22, 2022 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Super Classic alpineering route on the King of the Rockies.
From the Berg Lake Trail head, hike around the West end of the mountain to Berg Lake (~12 miles). Cross the Robson River upstream of Berg Lake. Note: River crossing is highly conditions dependent and potentially dangerous. One can hike all the way up and cross via the toe of the Robson Glacier.
Gain the Berg Glacier near its toe and climb the (minor) icefall to reach the bowl at the base of the North Face.
Conditions depending, crossing the bergschrund can be the crux of the route, with a short section of vertical ice. Climb approximately 14-18 pitches (it sure felt longer to me when we did it in 1989) of 50 degree ice/ snow to gain the Emperor Ridge and the summit.
Descend the route, or traverse the mountain and descend via South Face/Schwartz Ledges (complex route finding, especially from above) and the Forster Hut.
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