PRINT: Rock Climb Head Shoulders Knees and Toes, Patapsco Valley State Park

Head Shoulders Knees and Toes

5.11d, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Mike Kremer Jan 2022
Maryland > Patapsco Valley SP > Woodstock Rock

Access Issue: Don't park to close to the train tracks and don't walk the tracks to the rock. Details

Stay off the train tracks and use the trail. Do not park your car any closer than 6 feet to the railroad tracks. This parking lot belongs to CSX and creating a hazard here could close this access point.

Description

The route starts under the large roof between Mother F and Dyno Man(Wimp). Cllimb directly under the roof. Us holds on the right of the roof(Mother F) to get into postiion to use the large rail on Dyno Man. Find your good heel on top of the roof then use the crimps including the good outside 2 finger crimp(You'll be thankful you found it) to pull straight through the roof. Once you get on top of the roof a nice easy jaunt straight up finishing out on the crack roof on Mother F. The crux is the bouldery start to pulling the first roof.

I gave the route a 11d. With the single boulder problem crux I do not feel it is quite a 12 though the boulder problem is a tough sequence to nail.

The route can be done on gear though I have not yet and want to run it a few more times on TR before I run it on gear.

Location

directly under the main roof between Mother F and Dyno man(wimp)

Protection

Natural anchors for top rope. Typical mediocre to bad Patapsco rock for placing gear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Kremer
Pasadena, MD

5.11d

Thanks for your opinion. The creator of the local guide book disagrees with you but again thanks for the input. Jan 18, 2022

Michael Kremer
Pasadena, MD

5.11d

Well since it can not be sone sport and top rope is how 90% of our routes are in this state and many can not be done free I think your point is mute.

Cool that you do not feel it is a FA. Others disagree with your opinion. I’ve set other routes, I’ve bolted and set trad routes. But again thanks for your input. Jan 18, 2022