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Glass Elevator
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 23
votes
Routes in Angel Food Wall
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Domestic Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glass Elevator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stark Options T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sandy Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tele-vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tunnel vision / stilgar variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Healy's Haunted House T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,873 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Dec 16, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route climbs a major weakness on the far left side of Angel Food Wall. When we first climbed this a couple years ago we found restaurant signs on one of the ledges and bootied a stuck cam in the chimney. It must have a long history and different name so I would love to update if anyone knows. Start under the large house sized chockstone left of sandy hole.
P0/1 50' Squeeze through a small short vertical tunnel in the rocks at the far right side of the chockstone to a ledge about 15 feet up. The leader should tag packs up to this ledge before scrambling up and over the chockstone itself to gain the left side of wall. Climb up a short face to gain the large brushy ledge and set up a belay at the start of the chimney system.
P2 80’ 5.4 Head up and right through the path of least resistance aiming for the base of the large obvious chimney. Set up the belay under the crack on the right side of the small ledge at the start of the chimney.
P3 100’ 5.6 Head up into the juggy crack system at the far RIGHT side of the chimney (the direct 5.9 chimney variation is detailed below). The crack looks dirty but climbs very well. There is a rope eating crack down low that will give you heinous rope drag if you are not careful. Belay at the bushy ledge at the top of the crack.
P3v 100’ 5.9 Alternatively, climb the 5.9 chimney on the left, this chimney is wicked slippery, maybe the slickest I’ve ever climbed (maybe second to the Kor Ingalls polished calcite…). This option has some loose rock and goes to the same ledge.
P4 120’ 5.5 Head up and LEFT into the large vegetated gully. Ramble up the path of least resistance to the “restaurant sign ledge”, most of the signs have been washed away in a storm it seems. You're aiming for a ledge with a larger pine tree.
P5 150’ 5.6 Walk left on the belay ledge to the elevator shaft pitch on “Domestic Bliss”. Climb that route's last pitch for an absolutely stellar pitch of splitter varnish crack climbing. The first time up we climbed the crack system straight up and found it moderate but very friable and chossy with a couple death flakes, would not recommend.
Descent: Head left on the top out ledge. Follow this ledge all the way left to link into the standard descent for Angel Food wall.
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