Shaar Waterfall

Shaar waterfall known as the tallest waterfall in Central Asia.  We found it to be more of an alpine climb rather than a waterfall ice climb.  Total elevation gain from the top of the waterfall to the base was approximately 300 meters.  We lost count of the pitches but believe we did 8 pitches with a double rope.  It was a sun-up to sun-down climb and we walked back to the tent under headlamp.  Center sections of the waterfall are the most difficult at WI3.  Approximately 3 pitches of WI3 conditions consisted of lumpy ice with short vertical sections.  The first pitch off the base of the waterfall had the most vertical ice although it was no more than 5 meters of near vertical ice climbing.  The middle WI3 section has a large bare hole with water showering out of it.  A comfortable belay station right below it offered an excellent photo opportunity.  WI2 conditions, mostly neve’, were found throughout the waterfall on the climber’s left side as well as in between WI3 sections.  Approximately 4 pitches were WI2, consisting of steep alpine climbing on loose snow or neve’.  The final pitch is a short section of mixed climbing (ice, neve’, and rock) to bypass thin ice at the top.  

 Shaar is a common tourist destination in the summer.  The road to Shaar crosses a bridge on the south side of At-Bashi village.  Drive as far as you can and park in the trees on the west side of the river at the base of the valley.  The access trail is approximately 7km long with approximately 700 meters elevation gain.   The approach took us 4 hours with a heavy pack.  A foot bridge at the beginning of the trail crosses the river to the east side and continues up the valley, ending at a wide-open pasture area at the base of the waterfall.   Excellent camping areas can be found.  Temperatures were -15C during the day and -30C at night in late December.

A double rope is necessary to save time.  We used ice screws for protection throughout the climb with one exception.  We slung a rock feature at the top of the waterfall to rappel onto the waterfall.  We fell through the ice into a shallow water section at the bottom of this rappel and generally found traversing the thin ice at the top of the waterfall with the sound of large amounts of water rushing below us to be “invigorating”.  Small ice formations in the middle sections of WI2 neve’ and loose snow were well spaced for anchor building.