Demon's Dance
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A0 R
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | B. Smoot, L. Ellison, 1990 |
Page Views: | 540 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 29, 2021 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
This route ascends the seldom explored west side of clean slab between the Regge Pole and the McQuarrie Route.
P1: Climb the first 40' of the McQuarrie Route to the large featured slab on the left (below a big roof). Traverse left across the slab to where the roof ends, move farther left to a gear belay at a wide crack beneath the big slab above. 5.6. This belay can also be approached from directly below via 5.5 climbing.
P2: Face climb up the poorly protected face (5.7) passing a piton to a flake at the base of a shallow left facing corner, just below a bolt. Aid climb past a short bolt ladder (4 or 5 old bolts) to a tiny green corner. Free climbing up this leads to a semi hanging belay, 5.11... great pitch.
P3: Edge up to thin cracks and flakes to a bolt. Traverse right and up (5.10) to easier cracks, these lead to the belay atop Pedestal Ledge on Arm and Hammer.
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