Archangelo

A wonderful route with some fabulous climbing in very exposed positions particularly up high.   

P1:  Traverse left up and left to a left facing corner, which accepts some medium sized cams. 5c (45m)

P2:  Traverse left (not straight up on bolts!) to a bulge and crux going straight up.  6b (35m)

P3:  Again traverse left on easy terrain and then climb up to a nice stance under the arching roof.  5b (45m)

P4:  A fantastic pitch starting with some difficult face-climbing on tufas which exists to the right and then straight up under the slanting roof.  Follow the slanting roof on wild climbing with huge slung tufas.  6a (45m)

P5:  Traverse to the right and then straight up over a little roof.  Then angle diagonally up and right on easier climbing and slung tufas.  6a (45m)

P6:  Walk up to the top of the detached flake/pillar to the right of the belay.  Hard moves off of the pillar to the left and then snake back right on popcorn rock then straight up and slight right to the belay. 5c+ (20m)  

P7:  (Possible to link with the previous pitch). Traverse to the right and then up a hard then balancy move on tufas and a flake.  Traverse left under the large overhang to an intermediate belay.  6b (15m)

P8:  (Possible to link with the previous pitch).  Continue the traverse to the left to a series of two difficult sequences on tufas which can be overcome in A1 or free.  6b/c or 5b A1 (15m)

P9:  A very exposed traverse down and left from the belay and then up again to the visible anchor slings of the next pitch.  5b (15m)

P10:  The crux pitch goes straight up the steep overhang exiting left to follow the line of bolts up to a nice stance in the trees.  6b+/6b or A1 (25m)

P11:  Up very easy but very broken terrain to the summit.  4a (35m)

For topos, see the original http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/abozzo/via-archangelo.pdf .  Also well described in the Sarca Walls Ver. 1 and the Arco Multi-pitch Vertical Life books.  

Park at the Dro sports center.  Find the wide path running N/S of the W of the sports center and follow it to the S until you meet a road heading into the center of Dro.  Leave the road onto a path that goes into an olive grove and then take your first exist to the right up a trail leading to the wall.  At this junction there is a rock with "arrampicata" written on it.  Follow the path S along the wall following the signs for Archangelo to where the name of the route is written on the wall.