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Waugh Direct
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Neptune
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Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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World-class Choss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Catch the Wave S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in the Shower S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waugh Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Draggin' Book T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jim Waugh, Rick Donnelly 1989 |
| Page Views: | 610 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Bennett on Nov 4, 2021 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
The direct finish to Swept Away is just so damn good that it deserves its own listing. Really! Avoid that puckering leftwards traverse along crunchy flakes that is the original second pitch and instead take on the imposing strength of the wall. Spectacular positioning along Neptune's curving prow with ample air below combine with impeccable rock and spellbinding movement to deliver an unforgettable experience. You'll need to muster your sorcery and creativity as much as your finger strength and precision core tension to sail this ship past the Reef!
Hardware updated to 1/2" SS sleeves 10/31/21. Thanks CASA/ASCA!
Location
Direct finish to Swept Away. Where the original P2 breaks left, continue following the corner and incipient cracks into the line of bolts; the first bolt is an original "honker", the rest have been updated to 1/2" SS. Anchor is hands sized cams and/or a thread around a huge boulder pile atop Neptune; watch the sharp edges.
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