Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Jay Smith, Jo Bentley, 1988.
Page Views: 469 total · 11/month
Shared By: Derrick W on Nov 3, 2021
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route is an extension of Jarni Zvrat-Ky -- though it would be more accurate to say that Jarni-Zvrat-Ky is a shortening of Dust to Dusk, as this route went in first.  Either way, climb Jarni-Zvrat-Ky to its anchor and then exit the alcove to the right.  This is the crux and requires (for me, at least) wild stemming while reaching over to a seemingly blank face which houses a thin hands splitter.  Once established in the splitter, progress upwards on sometimes friable rock for 40-50 feet to the anchor.

The move out of the alcove is wild, and the crack above is nice and steep.  With more ascents the rock on the upper section might clean up, but it seems that most parties stop at the first anchor.

Location Suggest change

Start by climbing Jarni-Zvrat-Ky, which is 20 or so feet left of Binou's Crack.

Protection Suggest change

A rack that works well for me (camalot sizes) is: purple TCU (1), 0.4 (2), 0.5 (3), 0.75 (5), 1 (5), 2 (1), 3 (1), and 5 alpine draws.

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