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Routes in Ginger Buttress
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1100 ft (333 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,219 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Rprops on Oct 26, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A line that starts somewhere obvious, and ends somewhere surprising.
P0: 5.8 (90m) Climb Waterstreak Chimney to the bowl.
Walk to the back right corner of the bowl.
P1: 5.7 (70m) Climb the the high quality corner crack to a nice ledge. Super fun.
P2: C2 (35m) Aid up the splitter corner until the crack opens up wider than a #6. At this point make a tricky traverse left across the face. Aid around the corner, making a long reach to another solid crack, and aid up that (backclean!!!!), past a blocky bit, to belay below the incredible corner. (The start could surely be freed around 10-, the face likely could have been freed as well.)
P3: C2+ (30m) Aid the spectacular leaning crack. Small gear to a 3" pod, and then lots of tiny brass, ball nuts, and little cams. Great rock and clean air below make this a truly enjoyable pitch. Exiting the corner to gain the chimney belay is exciting (see comments). I have no idea what aid grades mean.
Everything after this is overlapping terrain with Dry Rub, but if you are trying to do the minimum amount of free climbing....
P4: 5.7 C1 (45m) Chimney up and around the roof ( C1 or 5.9+) Climb the immaculate triangular chimney, through a squeeze, to another chimney belay stance.
P5: 5.8/C1 (60m) Chimney up. Eventually you'll reach trees at the mouth of a massive cleft, around 25m. Spy a crack in perfect stone on the right wall, and take it. Battle through the remains of a small tree to get inside the slot. Aid the steep C1 crack above to gain a great ledge.
P6: 5.5 C1 (35m) Climb the pretty stem box, then easy free climbing up varnished jugs reminiscent of Armatron to another ledge covered in large oak trees.
P7: 5.7 C1 (60m) Climb the wide crack on the left. Aid the first move. 35m up is a cave with trees (optional belay). Climb through the Tunnel-Vision-esque hole in the back, and head up to the next cave, which can not be tunneled through. Place a cam high and make the exciting move out right (hand traverse the little diving board, easy but thrilling). and climb above to a notch. This pitch looks chossy, mossy, and wide, but is actually the same bomber rock as found on Crimson Chrysalis. A worthy finish.
After topping the notch you'll encounter the most unlikely thing: a heavily cairned trail! Follow cairns and handlines to the Rainbow Wall bowl and hike out Juniper Canyon.
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