Type: Ice, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: Will Mayo, Dave Furman
Page Views: 611 total · 15/month
Shared By: Aldini Pelliti on Oct 18, 2021
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

This is, in my mind, deserves to be among the top ten classics of The Notch, offering cerebral and fun technical climbing down low, with wild, exposed and pumpy climbing up high. 

P1:Climb thin ice on a slab to reach the first bolt, then continue on mixed terrain. Several lines are possible. Some bolts on the summer line of Better Living Through Chemistry might be utilized. This pitch can be broken into two if a suitable anchor can be found. Climb to the bolted anchor on the large right-rising sloping ledge. 

P2: climb thin WI4 with possibly poor to no protection up to a 2 bolt anchor underneath the huge overhang at the top about 40 feet left of the dagger.

P3: The last pitch goes up a skinny pillar on the wall to a bolt, then up to an undercling at a small foot ledge(gear here-yellow metolius tcu and .5 camalot. Traverse right to another bolt. Continue right with tools in turf to a ledge, mantle onto this and stand up, clipping a bolt behind the free-hanger. Then reach out, stem, jump or do whatever it takes to get on the hanger depending on how big and thick it is. Move up and clip another bolt as you work up behind it. Move around to the front up high, then place a screw above the attachment point if you can and power it to the top in the trees. Note - I probably don't have to say it, but do not place screws in the hanger itself. It has been known to break off.

Location Suggest change

300 feet right of the Ragnarock buttress. When the lower part of the route isn't in, the upper part can be reached by climbing the right-rising dirt, rock and grass ledge system to the anchors of the summer route, Better Living Through Chemistry.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a full mixed rack with thin ice in mind.

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