Il Risveglio di Kundalini

Overall:
Great climb, awesome views. Sometimes more runout than you want, always more tricky than the grade suggests.

Gear
We brought a doubles from .4-2 BD, one #3, #0.1, #0.2 and #0.3 BD. We brought nuts, but did not need them. I would recommend adding at least another #1 and #2, perhaps another #3. We brought 12 alpine/quickdraws, a double length sling and a roller-carabiner. You do run out of draws easily with the 45m pitches, so perhaps one or two more is nice. The roller-carabiner was nice for the couple 90deg corners

P1v2:
Start up a nice crack (“5b”) towards tat hanging from the big horizontal crack, then turn right towards the black and white striped roof.
5b, 35-45m

P2:
This is the crux pitch acc to the topo. The crux is a move about a metre from the belay. First clip two old pitons (one above the other) and move left onto the slab. The move through the roof is not bad. Whatever you do though do NOT NOT NOT go up the crack, it seems great (which it is) but you’ll never get to the next belay. Rather: move left along the very grassy crack past some dodgy looking tat towards a big triangular rock and a gorgeous looking crack.
6a+, 40m

P3;
All the way up the stellar crack, past quite a lot of stuck gear, particularly in the top half, until you get to two pitons when the crack seems to end. The crack eats up BD #1 and 2 in the beginning (.5 / .75 towards the top)
5b, 45m

P4:
Move a bit up from the belay over the disappearing crack, then past a piton to that flaring chimney on the left. Put a #3 BD in the bottom!!!! The remaining 6-7m is unprotectable. Stay out of the chimney, or you’ll get yourself stuck. (Advised by the topo as well) 

From here, one topo on the internet suggests to go up the slabs to a tree with ropes on it. Which makes this pitch 50m. I did that, but the section afterwards was tricky. [See P5v2]
5c, 25-50m

P5:
Followed the crack on the left upwards.
5b, 40m

P6:
Keep moving under the crack until you get to a ‘vertical spike’ with a lot of tat on it.
5c, 40m

P7:
Lower yourself a couple of metres until you get to the horizontal band/slabs, which is filled with pitons and well protected to the tree.
4a, 45m

P8
Moves up move wavy slabs to a ‘band’, there was a tiny bit of seepage here (a day after raining, though we’ve been told it’s often wet). Move over up onto the band at a ‘vertical spike’. Then follow the crack to the right, walking on the slabs to another comfortable tree belay.
5a, 45m

P9
Move up towards the next band/overhang. Move to the right, around a corner “Maximum Exposed”-the internet said - quite cruxy. Move up a crack.. Acc to the internet, there’s an easier variation along the right. Upwards there are two pitons, to which we added some gear.
5c, 40m

P10
Move up right on the slabs, then further up towards the crack. Follow the undercling crack along bend towards the left, and before you know it you’re on a couple metres slab towards the woods / trees.
5a/b, 25m

Descent:
Follow the tracks into the woods. The topo suggests go right and up to the approach to Luna Nascente. We went left and down.. crossed a creek. And ended up at the “Bidet de la Contessa” after about 1.15h.

P5v2:
Move up from the tree at the 50m point, and then take a chimney up which is really physical. Then there are two slopers for the hands, and two for the feet and you’re required to move right. Daan didn’t but bailed instead. But this is what you do have to pass through on your real P5 or P6. The other team said they added a small cam and a nut and did the nasty move
[Another version on the internet claims you can go up the slabs to the grassy ‘blade’ on the right which then veers to the left, this ends to the right of the nasty move, which is ideal). The slabs to get to the grassy blade are climbable, but quite runout. And the grassy blade is probably a lot grassier now than when the internet-person did it. So we climbed up further, then moved to the right, and into the Bosco, which is the official “variation”. The way up until here is pretty messed up run out.
The large tree in the Bosco is reduced to a stump. But you can belay on another tree.

The topo claims to turn left towards the woods right after you cross the bridge over the stream which comes in from the left. However, we found it much quicker to continue on the path for another 100m until there is one beam missing in the fence on the left. Then walk over the hump to a big tree at the edge of the woods. (See picture). From there, follow the path winding up through the woods, until you see the rockface of Dimore degli Dei. Turn right there, past a crack and another 50m or so until a clearing from which you can see the horizontal crack at the start of Kundalini.

Three metres before the clearing, climb up a bit, and on the right you’ll find start #2 (5b). Start #1 (5a), the one according to the topo, starts up past grassy stuff.