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Sound and Vision
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2+
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
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Blind Man's Bluff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blinded by the Light T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book of Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Braille Book T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crucifix, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Generation Gap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Last Crusade, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mary's Tears T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Perfect Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Power Point T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Remain in Light T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Renaissance Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Sequel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sight Reader T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sound and Vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Syllable, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Westerberg and Travis Heidepriem |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | tallmark515 on Sep 29, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This buttress hosts some unique (and steep!) rock features, rad neon-yellow lichen and it places the climber in some beautifully exposed positions with great views of the valley and the spires. Sadly, it also suffers from some very poor rock quality and will not go free. Nevertheless, the aid climbing is engaging and at least one pitch (pitch 3?) was almost entirely climbed on beaks and knifeblades, with enough bomber placements to keep it A2’ish.
All the belays are bolted and we placed a few 1/4" bolts and bathook holes throughout the route to avoid bad rock or to bypass short blank sections.
At the top of the 4th pitch, aim for the inside of the giant right facing corner. The fifth pitch connects into the last pitch of Book of Job via a bolt and a traverse to the climbers-right (into the chasm). Climb easy 5th to the top.
If anyone actually wants to climb this, send me a message and I can provide more information.
Location
Starts at the toe of the buttress, near the arete, between Perfect Vision and Book of Job. There is a tree which may be used to get established on the rock. From the tree, free climb 5.9 and look for a bolt. From the bolt, head up and right to the obvious crack system.
The route may be rappelled from any pitch below the last pitch, but two ropes are necessary. Due to the overhanging nature of the route, some anchors may be difficult to access.
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