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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress
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Botany of Desire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bucket List, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bun in the Oven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Europithacus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Evolution T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goldshut Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Granite Oak S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Half Cracked T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sonata T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thy Holy Hand Grenade S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unicorn Tower S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, Laura Capps, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 1,173 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Sep 18, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Bun in the Oven has thin seam climbing on bullet granite! Technical, yet enjoyable, laybacking and finger locking up the seam leads to a down pulling edge at the 6th bolt. With steady feet, you can manage a quick shake before maneuvering through a harder-than-it-looks crux getting past the last bolt and gaining good holds before mantling over and joining Temptation Arete at its 10th bolt. Once you clip the crux bolt, climb straight up on nice edges/sidepulls, no traversing right to Temptation to go around the crux.
The name Bun in the Oven comes from the fact that Laura was 4 months pregnant when we developed it. She still managed to send it on toprope with the extra baby weight! Incredible!
As for the grade, it’s probably harder than Temptation but easier than Botany, and granite feels nice if you get cold temps. Have fun!
Location
This is a left-start variation to Temptation Arete. Climb the thin seam to the left of Temptation Arete, and meet up with Temptation... after manteling over the ledge. Bun in the Oven has 7 bolts, then meets up with Temptation... at its 10th bolt.
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