Layback Approach Offwidth
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | unknown, definitely climbed before |
Page Views: | 375 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Sam Lawrence on Aug 31, 2021 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Jam or layback the #5 to #6 offwidth. Build an anchor on the horn on the main approach ledge on the SE side. This is probably about on par with Grunt Layback or Finally, just much shorter.
Location
We used this to access Narrow and Ugly and 19th Nervous Breakdown. This finishes just left of 19th Nervous Breakdown. You could scramble up the main approach ledge and TR this off a horn.
Protection
I found it very difficult to protect while laybacking (it would be slightly overhanging to climb like an OW, though I started with a great #5 stack). This protects with a #5 and #6. Two 6s would be nice, but I was able to use a floppy 5 to bump the 6. I found it tough to place gear, but I am not good at laybacking.
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