Orizzonti di Gloria
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | R. Galvagni, D. Filippi, July 2005 |
Page Views: | 761 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | RKM on Aug 30, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
This newer route criss crosses the existing route called Cip and Co and is pretty much straight up the face. The first several pitches are fantastic high angle slab climbing on perfect gray rock. So good!
The 5th pitch goes up a corner that gets more than vertical. French freeing the top several meters is hard and a fall is into space.
The 6th pitch goes over several small bulges, each with a bolt at the start. Strenuous pitch at 5.10
The 7th pitch makes the whole climb worth it. It goes up a vertical to overhanging prow, good pro, can pull on gear if needed (I did) and puts you out over most of the route below. Spectacular.
Location
Start on the right side of a deep and wet chimney. Go directly up the gray slabs. This is about 100 meters from the start of via del Buco. Getting to the rock is a trick on the very loose and unstable steep scree.
Descent is the same as other routes on the wall. Part via Ferrata, a hanging bridge and ladders lead to endless scree back to the north and the Lagazuoi tram parking.
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