Medicine Man

Climb:

A heady lead, Medicine Man is a step up from A Date with Death in terms of its more sustained cruxes and seriousness of the protection. The gear is small, fiddley, and much of it placed from precarious stances. Buyer beware.

The first 30 feet are comprised of two cruxes barely separated by a stance. After finishing the second crux, move left through the small bulge and enjoy some easier climbing (maybe 5.11) to a stance where you can get a couple bomber pieces. Shake out and head up to the next horizontal break. Nest some gear and then charge up the headwall to an exciting victory mantle.

It’s rare that a climb like this protects naturally (and safely) in the Sandias; no bolts needed. In the words of Will Stanhope, “It’s like graffiti on the Vatican. If it goes without a bolt, you kinda have to rise to the challenge.”

History:

In the late 80s, John Duran put up some of the best climbs at their grade in the Sandias. Around the time he established A Date with Death, he worked this line on TR but never got it clean. He referred to it as The Big Lie. Fast forward 30+ years. When I finished A Date with Death, the line and history caught my eye. In a conversation with John, he said all that was needed was some bolts and work. After aiding to the finish ledge and installing an anchor, it was clear no bolts were needed. Medicine Man was headpointed.

Name:

The climb, and North American Wall in general, has been a place of healing over the Summers of 2020-2021. I likely wouldn’t have been climbing there, or at the grade, without John’s inspiring routes (Cat Daddy, A Date with Death, etc). John Duran is the Medicine Man.

The seam 15 feet left of A Date with Death