The Lonely Stoner
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British V3+ YDS 6A+ Font
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, Boulder |
FA: | Jim Day |
Page Views: | 711 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Jim Day on Aug 29, 2021 |
Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
Description
Short climb along a crack with a good deep pocket jug halfway up
There has been some controversy over the rating and bolting of this climb. It has been said that a grade of 5.12 is too high- that's fair. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and your mileage may vary.
It has also been said that this climb should only have been a boulder problem and should never have been bolted. Well, as with all the climbs in this area, significant effort (e.g. brushing, de-flaking, and even removal of a tree sapling growing from the juggy pocket) was required to develop this route. All of this was done on top rope, so this route would not be the climb it is today by bouldering alone.
If you choose to try it as a boulder problem, use a pad and spotter, and be confident! Have a plan for getting home safely in the event of an injury (e.g. a good crew, first aid supplies, etc).
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