Lunar Arete
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British Steep Snow
Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Terry Kennedy and Jack Tackle (July/ August 1978) |
Page Views: | 958 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Austin Mallet on Aug 29, 2021 |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
Lunar Arete is the striking feature lookers left of the Central Chimney that cuts the east face of Spirit Mountain. It is a long, alpine route with moderate climbing and a short approach for Beartooth standards. There is some choss down low, but the rock quality improves near the top of the climb. The last 3-4 pitches are fantastic. Route finding isn't too challenging once on the Arete. Climb the spine of the Arete and work left whenever needed to find moderate climbing.
The majority of the climbing is in the 5.5-5.6 range with some 5.7-5.8 moves sprinkled in.
Descent: I would recommend using the "South Ridge" route described on SummitPost. We used the "South Slopes" route described on SummitPost for the descent but found alpine ice in the snow field and very loose Class 4 terrain skiers left of it. The South Ridge route is longer, but I would imagine it's faster.
Full trip report here: mtnchronicles.com/lunar-arete
Location
Follow the approach description for Spirit Mountain. Once you get to the southern end of Moon Lake, approach the climb by skirting the east side of the lake. Aim for the snow at the base of the Arete. Ascend the steep, permanent snowfield to the base of Lunar Arete. The snowfield steepens near the top and is close to 50 degrees.
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