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Routes in Dump Wall
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Bear in a Dumpster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Brown Bottle Flu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Compactor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dance Monkey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dance Monkey Extension S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dump Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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It's Your Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Madness S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Save the Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shock the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Taming The Monkey Mind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toxic Substance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Trash Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter |
| Page Views: | 403 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Aug 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This link provides a more logical and smooth way to climb the classic Shock the Monkey corner without climbing Trash Man (out left) and trying to manage the rope from there or set up an intermediate belay on the ledge. There is an old 1/4" bolt and other evidence that Doug Ranck and others explored this possibility but evidently didn't finish it.
Climb the first three bolts of Toxic Substance. At the fourth bolt, reach left to a new bolt connecting the blank face between Toxic Substance and the ledge system below Shock the Monkey's classic corner. You may want to clip the fourth bolt while making this reach and then back clean the fourth bolt. Slings or long draws may also be helpful in this section.
Make this long move left and on to the first of two ledge systems below Shock the Monkey's corner. A new bolt up and right of the old two bolt anchor below the corner helps the rope run more freely. Once in the corner of Shock the Monkey, climb the steep, right-angling corner.
Location
Start as for Toxic Substance on the far left of the main sector of the Dump Wall. This is a link-up of the bottom of Toxic Substance and into Shock the Monkey.
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