Bibliographie
5.15c/d YDS 9c French 38 Ewbanks XIII- UIAA 40 ZA E11 8c British
Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Alex Megos Aug 2020 |
Page Views: | 3,142 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | dantesupertramp on Aug 24, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
Bolted by Ethan Pringle, the route lies immediately to the right of famous Biographie, the world’s benchmark 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and repeated by Megos, somewhat incredibly, on his third attempt and in a single day in 2014.
The route begins on a long consistent overhang with a cruxy problem 3/4 up, then a second crux establishing on the vertical water streak headwall. The final redpoint crux is clipping the chains and not pumping out up the juggy victory lap headwall.
It is the second 9c in the world, after Silence at Flatanger in Norway, was established by Adam Ondra in 2017, however...the ultimate limestone endurance route was repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi in late summer 2021 and downgraded to 5.15c/9b+. Megos agreed with the downgrade, saying he had never been sure and that he changed beta so many times it was hard to get a handle on the true difficulty.
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