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Routes in Lincoln Lake
| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Page Views: | 637 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Jul 28, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Access Issue: 2024 - road closure
Details
Description
Lincoln Lake has a concentration of V13s higher than almost anywhere else in the world. These problems range from super crimpy roofs to sustained compression squeezing. Mote is widely regarded to be the best, or at least most unique of Lincoln’s V13 circuit.
Begin from a stand start, on a left hand undercling and right hand edge in the middle of a nice vertical feature. Make an easy move to another left undercling (people have mistakenly started one move too high here), and launch into an extended compression sequence with very cryptic beta as well as temperature-dependent slopers. At the apex of the boulder, grab a horrible right pinch, carefully rock over onto the slab, and grab the glorious threadhole victory jug.
Location
This is about 30 yards to the downhill hiker's left of the trail, sitting right outside the huge cave system in which Clan of the Cave Bears is located. It’s also just uphill from Mindsets a Threat. Start on good holds near the right of the wall. The sit start “Butterfinger” begins matched on a lower left edge but doesn’t add anything to the quality or difficulty.
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