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Purple People Eaters

5.8 PG13, Trad, Alpine, 749 ft (227 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: D Vocadlo, J Simms, AM (Conway) Gill, D Brayshaw 1994
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Anderson River… > Alpaca Peak

Description

A distinctive right-leaning arch forms the most distinctive feature of this route's lower pitches. Two starts were done. Either climb along the arch from left to right (5.7) or climb directly up to the midpoint of the arch from below (5.8, no pro), in both cases reaching a stance belay. Continue right along the arch for a full ropelength (5.8) to a ledge belay. Continue straight up for a full pitch featuring a left-facing slim flake (5.8). Two easier slab pitches (5.7, 5.6) lead to the top.

Location

The East Face of Alpaca is a distinct dome at the southern end of the northeast face, not far north of the col with Llama Peak. Obvious when approaching from Coldwater River and visible in profile from Zupjok. Either bushwack up from the last switchback on Coldwater Road to the route (1 hour +) or descend from the ridgeline near Llama Peak.

Protection

Full rack from small nuts to #3 Camalot. No doubles needed but a wide range of sizes useful. No bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alpaca East Face from the base. PPE in red
[Hide Photo] Alpaca East Face from the base. PPE in red
East face in profile from Vicuna trail
[Hide Photo] East face in profile from Vicuna trail
The first pitch during the first ascent in 1994
[Hide Photo] The first pitch during the first ascent in 1994