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Purple People Eaters
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Alpaca Peak
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Al-Pika Slabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple People Eaters T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 749 ft (227 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | D Vocadlo, J Simms, AM (Conway) Gill, D Brayshaw 1994 |
| Page Views: | 437 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Jul 25, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
A distinctive right-leaning arch forms the most distinctive feature of this route's lower pitches. Two starts were done. Either climb along the arch from left to right (5.7) or climb directly up to the midpoint of the arch from below (5.8, no pro), in both cases reaching a stance belay. Continue right along the arch for a full ropelength (5.8) to a ledge belay. Continue straight up for a full pitch featuring a left-facing slim flake (5.8). Two easier slab pitches (5.7, 5.6) lead to the top.
Location
The East Face of Alpaca is a distinct dome at the southern end of the northeast face, not far north of the col with Llama Peak. Obvious when approaching from Coldwater River and visible in profile from Zupjok. Either bushwack up from the last switchback on Coldwater Road to the route (1 hour +) or descend from the ridgeline near Llama Peak.
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