Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Jon Jones, 1992
Page Views: 324 total · 8/month
Shared By: Rhys Beaudry on Jul 19, 2021
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Stick clip and boulder off the ground (come in from the left or the right). A sustained section of resistance climb on big holds (classic Carrot style open hand, pumpy!) leads to a mid-height no hands rest. 

Head straight up into the techy dihedral and exit left at the top. Rest where you can, and punch it through possibly the hardest sequence right at the chains!

The original line was the full "Sword in the Stone" but lower anchors were placed by popular demand to finish below the boulder problem. 

Location Suggest change

Look for the prominent dihedral in the middle of Raven's Nest Buttress. The first bolt line to the left is The Warlock/American Standard, Calibrun is the next bolt line to the left of that.

For Calibrun, stay right at the first bolt split, and left at the second bolt split. 

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with biners.

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