Holy Greyell

Clean route on beautiful sticky granite provides moderate crack climbing, tricky slab, and fun knobs. Plenty of bolts and bolted anchors w/ rap rings all the way up.

P1: Low angle zig zag crack, then 2 bolts moving up and right to a hand crack behind a flake. 5.8, 55m

P2: Up a short right-facing corner directly above the belay to a bolted face. Move up and left to a left facing corner, then up another bolted face. 5.8, 60m

P3: Traverse left from the belay, then continue straight up the face. Crux is pulling the initial thin moves after the traverse. Fully bolted! 10+, 30m

P4: Straight up a bolted knobby face to a flake. Opportunities for gear at the flake. 5.9, 35m

P5: Zig zag up, left, then back right along delicate flakes (murderous flakes? unfortunate lack of bolts here given tenuous pro opportunities) to an amazing traverse left on knobs. Continue up the knobby face to a right-facing corner. We set an intermediate belay at the base of the corner due to rope drag, full pitch continues up the (dirty-ish) corner to a good stance. 5.10, 60m

P6: Traverse down and right then climb a fun corner up to another traverse right on knobs. Then climb the amazing splitter finger/tips crack until it seams out to 3 final bolts and the anchor up and right. Amazing pitch. 10c, 60m.

Apparently an alternate option exists for P6 which moves left from the belay to a right-facing corner and then up an offwidth. Requires an additional #3, #4, #5. 5.9.

P7: "Standard scruffy Darrington adventure pitch" goes at 5.8 for 50m to the top of the wall. Didn't climb this one -- see Cascade Rock for full description.

Begins at the bivy at the Illusion Wall base. Look for the low angle crack trending left that briefly zigs right, then zags back left. 

Rap the route. From the top of p7, move up and right to find the chains for Schizophrenic, then rap to the top of p6.