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Southwest Ridge (Mongo Ridge)

5.10a, Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft (1212 m), 25 pitches, Grade VI,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Wayne Wallace, solo (7-2006)
Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Picket Range > Northern Pickets > Mt Fury > W Peak

Description

Approach was (originally and subsequently) done by climbing the se route to summit of East Fury then descending north and down to near the base of the ridge.

Originally climbed rope and free solo, this remote climb has several large gendarmes and knife edge sections. The cruxes are: getting on the ridge itself, Tower 3, and the Rooster Comb section near the end.There are also many rappels down the other side of these obstacles.

Descent was done by traversing from west Fury summit to East Fury summit, then back out Access creek.

Location

Started from the south side of the ridge to gain the crest.

Protection

No fixed anchors, you may find tat for rappels.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Pole of Remoteness
[Hide Photo] The Pole of Remoteness
Mike and Mongo ridge
[Hide Photo] Mike and Mongo ridge
Tower Three, (tower four not pictured), the rooster comb, the Pole of Remoteness, and false summit, from the summit of the first tower.
[Hide Photo] Tower Three, (tower four not pictured), the rooster comb, the Pole of Remoteness, and false summit, from the summit of the first tower.