All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area > Roughneck Area > Main Wall

The Derrickman

Name: The Derrickman
Rating: 3.5

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blue Collar Comedy Tour S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blue Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chop Suey Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Derrickman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Donuts and Nicotine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Exfoliation Station T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flaked Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Guillotine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Iliad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Key to the V Door T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Krispy Kreme T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Original Roughneck T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rapa Nui S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Rig Builder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Roughneck Odyssey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ruffian Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Squatter (in the White House) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Thread the Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tool Pusher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	XOX T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	XXX T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.52249, -105.39054
FA:	K. Stricker and B. Gay 12/2020
Page Views:	733 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Kevin Stricker on Jun 27, 2021
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

The Derreckman is a tough two pitch route up the far right corner before the South face, directly left of the Ruffian arete. There are multiple options to start, but if you want to link into one pitch, it's best to start with P1 of Thread the Needle. Otherwise cruise up the Original Roughneck flake start, the direct start to the right, or the Boardwalk. Continue up the steepening corner to a pod (optional belay with 0.75-1). Continue up challenging finger crack to an easier stretch then up to the roofs. Stretch up from the tooth, and clip the first bolt, then lieback up overlaps to crux moves at the lip and another bolt. Continue up to a large upper roof. Place a #3 if you brought it or run it put on easier terrain up the left face of the roof past a final bolt to 2 bolt anchor on the prow.

Rap off the other side down to P1 of Thread the Needle or to the ground with 2 ropes. This will improve with traffic.

Location

Start one of many ways from the left side of the South face. Hike up from the Sawmill to the south face buttress. Start on the Boardwalk, Direct, Original RN, or Thread the Needle.