East Peak (Southwest Face)

This ~2-pitch route on the East Peak of Ingalls can be used to extend your stay on Ingalls East Ridge or is a fun (albeit very short) route just on its own.

P0: Use P1 of the East Ridge to reach the North-East Peak notch and the chockstone that marks the start of the route. You can either climb to the chockstone at the notch or downclimb to the chockstone from the start of the East Ridge of North Peak, which we thought would be easier than climbing up to the chockstone. About 15 feet above the chockstone, there is a comfortable belay ledge from where you can start the first pitch.

P1: Climb the slabs, initially trending slightly left to a gully. Belay at the ledge on route. 

P2: Trend right and follow the ridge to the summit. There's a lot of loose rock on this ridge. 

Descent: There are 3 rap stations that you'll pass on the route. To continue with climbing the East Ridge of North Peak, on the final rap, we rapped down past the chockstone to get back on the left side of the gully and start the second pitch of the East Ridge.

Use the approach gully and first pitch beta for the East Ridge of Ingalls ( mountainproject.com/photo/1…). Climb to the chockstone at the North-East Peak notch. 

You can also downclimb to the chockstone from the start of the East Ridge of North Peak, which we thought would be easier than climbing up to the chockstone. About 15 feet above the chockstone, there is a comfortable belay ledge from where you can start the first pitch.

Single set of cams fingertips to #2, nuts. There are shallow cracks for placements. Some double-length slings since the route wanders. A lot of the rock is loose, so you might be running it out on easy terrain.