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Bean Drop Soup
5.9,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
FA: Nat Mann June 2021 (ground up)
S Carolina
> Big Rock Mountain
> Arch Wall
Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking
Details
Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.
Description
Squeeze yourself into the left-leaning chimney, but don't get suckered in too deep. Butt scoot and worm your way up about 25 feet to a decent hold where you can flip to face climbing below the first bolt (it is possible to clip the fist bolt on the 5.12 face before this with a little reach). Like any good chimney it's a little dirty, a little thrutchy, and a lot of fun. Depending on your climbing style this might be the crux. From there, make a few exposed moves through the face crux to a couple of fantastic jugs. Fun face climbing up to the chains.
Location
Up the obvious chimney of Arch Wall to the set of high chains.
Protection
4 bolts (+1 if using the bolt on the 5.12), chains
[Hide Photo] Looking down the chimney and face after cleaning the route.
Wherever
Found myself wishing the difficulty was sustained after the chimney
Use lockers for your anchor if lowering off. Top
Rope with directionals.
Easiest to clean by top-down belaying a follower. Otherwise, down-climb and clean (Either all the way or to the termination of the offwidth section then reclimb to lower down to the main slab face) Mar 19, 2023
Columbia, SC