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Bean Drop Soup

5.9, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
FA: Nat Mann June 2021 (ground up)
S Carolina > Big Rock Mountain > Arch Wall
Warning Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking DetailsDrop down

Description

Squeeze yourself into the left-leaning chimney, but don't get suckered in too deep.  Butt scoot and worm your way up about 25 feet to a decent hold where you can flip to face climbing below the first bolt (it is possible to clip the fist bolt on the 5.12 face before this with a little reach).  Like any good chimney it's a little dirty, a little thrutchy, and a lot of fun. Depending on your climbing style this might be the crux.  From there, make a few exposed moves through the face crux to a couple of fantastic jugs.  Fun face climbing up to the chains.

Location

Up the obvious chimney of Arch Wall to the set of high chains.

Protection

4 bolts (+1 if using the bolt on the 5.12), chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cruzin' the slab after the chimney shimmy!
[Hide Photo] Cruzin' the slab after the chimney shimmy!
I hear that hat climbs 5.10.
[Hide Photo] I hear that hat climbs 5.10.
Looking down the chimney and face after cleaning the route.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the chimney and face after cleaning the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J E
Wherever
 
[Hide Comment] 20ft of desperate groveling up a leaning off width chimney, followed by 30ish ft of lower-than-5.5 scrambling that only gets interesting again right before the anchor.

Found myself wishing the difficulty was sustained after the chimney

Use lockers for your anchor if lowering off. Top
Rope with directionals.

Easiest to clean by top-down belaying a follower. Otherwise, down-climb and clean (Either all the way or to the termination of the offwidth section then reclimb to lower down to the main slab face) Mar 19, 2023
Joseph Hill
Columbia, SC
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was worthwhile, the chimney thing felt funky but secure. Stayed dry while everything on X-Wall and some stuff on Arch wall was seeping. Rock inside the chimney was somewhat crumbly, make sure your belayer watches their head. I didn't listen the comment above me and tried to clean while lowering and it was a total pain. Definitely just belay your second up and rap down. Nov 27, 2023