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| Type: | Sport, 1300 ft (394 m), 13 pitches |
| FA: | December 2005, Patrick Gomez and Fred Imbert |
| Page Views: | 349 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Thomas Hlr on Jun 18, 2021 |
| Admins: | David Riley, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: Fire Restrictions - summer months!
Details
During the months of June, July, August and September, the access of persons to the massif, traffic and parking vehicles are regulated according to the weather conditions of the moment, defined by 3 levels of meteorological danger: orange, red and black.
- Level Orange: Access allowed
- Level Red: Access allowed from 6am to 11am and barred outside these hours
- Level Black: Access forbidden
Additional information on current restrictions at:
+33 (0) 8 11 20 13 13
bouches-du-rhone.gouv.fr/fi…
Wild camping also prohibited.
Description
P1 (5.8): easy slab on a conglomerate to a dihedral.
P2 (5.10b): sustained traverse pitch to the left.
P3 (5.10a): couple 5.10 moves up a dihedral then to the right and up to a ledge.
P4 (5.9): up a slab to an anchor below an overhanging boulder. First bolt is to the right and quite high, must be comfortable at the grade.
P5 (5.8): walk up to the left and follow the cairns to a short slab (3rd class, one bolt but can be skipped) and a short boulder section (10 feet, one bolt) that can be skipped.
P6 (5.10b): walk the ledge to the wall facing you and stay on the left. Crux is between first and second bolt, the rest of the pitch is more like 5.10a / 5.9
P7 (5.10a): bouldery start and high first bolt. Do not fall!! This is a very short pitch.
P8 (5.5): follow the cairns up to the left then right. You can completely skip this pitch by walking around on the left.
P9 (5.10c): crux pitch. Starts with an easy slab that gets harder after a few bolts. Then a crux section over 3 bolts pass 2 roofs.
P10 (5.10a): a pure slab pitch. Go past the piton at the top to find an anchor a few feet above. A bit run out from the last bolt the anchor on very easy terrain.
P11 (5.9): At this point you should see the summit and "la breche des moines". This pitch starts on a slab and wanders to the right then up.
P12 (5.9): straight up from the anchor, next to a crack system.
P13 (5.10a): sustained and wandering pitch. Starts with a traverse to the right, go straight up then traverses to the left. Pulling the final roof requires a bit of energy.
Location
From the parking du Plan d'en Chois, walk up the red trail to a flat area with a house. From there, take the brown trail. After a few hundred meters, you will find a cairn to your left marking the beginning of the climber's trail. This will take you to the bottom of the climb (right most climb, starts with a slab on a conglomerate with a lot of bushes).
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