Across the Great Divide
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Gabe Coler, Jim Ablao (2010?) |
Page Views: | 605 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jun 16, 2021 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is a great route for the seasoned Smith Rock mud adventurer. If you've done Abraxas, Freedom, and others and are looking for more, this one is perfect for you. It has some swaths of truly beautiful climbing on great rock, some sections of total garbage, and everything in between. (FWIW most of the worst rock is while you're still climbing on Chimney de Chelly)
I'm fairly sure we did the second ascent today over 10 years after the FA, (at the very least, my bail gear on the second pitch from an attempt in ~2013 was still there) so I'm posting the topo here to try and encourage more than 1 repeat per decade. (and because Gabe's topo is beautiful and the world should see it!) Part of what makes this thing cool is having to actually quest up it to get through it. (IMO 'quest' is the most over- and mis-used verb in the modern climbing vernacular, but it feels like an appropriate term here to describe all the groping up blank, slightly friable rock w/zero chalk found on P3) It would be cool to keep future comments here qualitative and not let them dilute the uncertainty and adventure inherent in going ground up on a route with only a hand-drawn topo. (or hand painted in this case)
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