All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Diamond

Gambler's Fallacy

Name: Gambler's Fallacy
Rating: 4.0

5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in The Diamond

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
	Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
	Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Obelisk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches
FA:	Chris Weidner, Bruce Miller; August 2020
Page Views:	2,667 total · 65/month
Shared By:	Chris Weidner on Jun 15, 2021
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Begin beneath D1 Pillar at a short, left-facing corner about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.

P1: 5.6 (65m). Climb the left-facing corner, then wander up the face on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. The belay takes #1-4 Camalots.

Rack: all gear.

P2: 5.10a (30m). Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe rightward on a narrow ledge. Face climb up and right, aiming for a large, left-facing corner. Gain a stance at its base, and belay at two pins (back up with small cams, nuts).

Rac : 1 each small cams, 2 each cams to #1 Camalot.

P3: 5.10a (45m). Jam and stem the hands to offwidth corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor (two nuts, one pin).

Rack: 1 each: RPs, all cams; 2 each #0.4-2 Camalots.

P4: 5.11a (40m). Ascend the attractive finger crack straight up from the belay until it peters out on ledgy terrain. Traverse left on edges beneath a wave of rock (5.7 R), then meander upward past a rotten hand crack to a large belay ledge beneath the giant corner (fixed nuts plus small cams).

Rack : all gear except a #4 Camalot.

P5: 5.11d (30m). A tough boulder problem on shallow jams ends quickly at a big, sloping ledge beneath the corner proper. Battle the pump (and cold) up the Winter Wall Dihedral to a two-bolt hanging stance at its top.

Rack: all gear.

P6: 5.13b (10m). The Sport Pitch. Climb a short ways to a jagged roof, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Work around the arête, then power up the overhanging face past 3 more bolts to gain Table Ledge and a two-bolt anchor out left.

Rack: 2 each #0.75 Camalot (in roof), 4 quickdraws, *a kneepad proved useful on the FA.

P7: 5.12b (30m). Step right to engage the sustained, overhanging crack (often wet) past a small roof at three-quarters height. Finish rightward to a stance and two-bolt anchor.

Rack: all gear.

P8: 5.13a (25m). The Roof Pitch. Climb the crack and face up to a bolt, then crank over the roof (exposed!) past a second bolt out left. Follow the seam upward past a fixed nut to a belay ledge on the right with two bolts. Precarious.

Rack: 1 each small-med cams, #2 Camalot, nuts; 2ea #0.75-1 Camalot.

P9: 5.12d (20m). Work up and right past 3 bolts (thin) to a finger crack splitting the blank wall. Follow this to a large ledge, then go up 5 more meters to belay at the top of the Diamond (one bolt, large nuts and/or mid-sized cams).

Rack: 1 each #1 Metolius - #0.75 Camalot, nuts; 3 quickdraws.

Location

Gambler's Fallacy frees the first 5 pitches of Enos Mills Wall (with the recent 4th pitch finger crack variation), then cuts left and up mostly new terrain to the top of the Diamond.