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Routes in Park View Dome
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Vista Perdida S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Singing Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Alpinista T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Heads High S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hey Ranger! T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Learn to Fly S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chase the Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost at Sea T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chicken Dance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Algo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Raisin’ in the Sun S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Abert's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heads Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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It’s Not Much of a Tail T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Carrion Climbing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shared Illusions S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cathartes Aura S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 365 ft (111 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Prehmus |
| Page Views: | 4,889 total · 102/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Prehmus on May 30, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
Heads High is a 4 pitch ~335 foot sport route. It climbs the south face of Park View Dome with highly featured rock including plenty of small chickenhead knobs.
P1: 75 feet. Pull through the horizontals to a ledge 10 feet above the start. Follow the left trending jugs past bolts 3 & 4. This is P1’s 5.7 crux. Continue easier climbing to the skyline. Thirty feet of 4th Class/walking leads to the belay on a huge ledge. Alpinista and Singing Chicken belays are also on this ledge.
P2: 95 feet. Step left from the belay and scramble 15 feet of low angle rock to the first bolt. Continue up the shoulder (5.6) following the bolts. The belay is just right of a small spruce tree on an 18 inch wide ledge.
P3: 96 feet. Getting off the ledge is the P3 5.4 crux. Cruise up the gentle slope. This pitch may be a bit left of the most natural line to keep the bolts well clear of the trad climb Hey Ranger! The belay is on a large ledge shared with Hey Ranger! Heads High and Hey Ranger! cross at this ledge.
P4: 70 feet. Rather than climbing the face left of the giant corner (that’s [[108183654]), walk 15 feet east (climber's right) from the anchor to the left shoulder of the corner, and find the first bolt. The 5.7 crux comes fairly quickly and involves more thought than power. Continue up the shoulder using interestingly varied holds. At the top, there is a stance for one person below the anchor. Sitting beside the anchor is comfortable, but in some seasons, you may need to pay attention to keep your feet dry. Access to the top of Park View Dome is a scramble, but the first move from the anchor is exposed.
Descent
To get down, rappel the route. Some care should be used when pulling the rope, as it can catch on the plentiful chickenheads.
If there are folks climbing the route below you, you can scramble up to the top and past the pine tree to the Heads Up anchor. It offers a two rap descent on bolted anchors. As a trad climb, it is less likely to have traffic. Walk down the gully to get back to the start.
Location
Heads High is the right most line on the south-facing base of Park View Dome. It's just west of where the access trail splits west to Singing Chicken and north to Hey Ranger! The start is from a 2 foot wide ledge over a 40 degree slab. From the start, you can’t see the upper parts of the climb.
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