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Routes in The Ruin
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Beware the Grooove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken MIrror S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Historical Friction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Left Over Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lost City S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Love Always, S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucky Me S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky You S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nothing Ruined S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Passive Voice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Positive Reinforcement S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ruin Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sins of the Flesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Taming the Strange S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tikal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Sarsaparilla S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche |
| Page Views: | 562 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 21, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock.
Details
Description
The first thing you might notice on this one is that the bolting isn't as generous as with other modern sport climbs. That is due to the need, especially in the first half to avoid questionable rock. There are bolts there to catch you on the hardest parts however, the runouts are on less difficult terrain.
Climb up the same slab/corner as the start of Historical Friction. Clip a bolt on the slab. The second bolt is a little funky to clip but is right where you want it for the climbing. Take the time to find a good clipping strategy before just going for it. Traverse right perhaps utilizing a knee bar ;) and out around the corner. Run it out on moderate moves to bolt 3. Tackle the arete above to the anchor.
The name is in reference to the fact that I found a nut stuck behind a block the size of a small couch when I was cleaning the route. took about 5 seconds with a pry bar in one hand to drop it to the ground. Whoever left that nut and survived to tell the tale... Lucky you!
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