Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Ap. New Diversions
|
Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cock Tart S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Falcon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Highlander S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rocket Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
| GPS: | 37.72262, -119.70258 |
| FA: | Paul Crawford |
| Page Views: | 838 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on May 20, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Some updates:
- Bolt that protects the opening crux is now a modern 3/8" 5-piece courtesy of the ASCA.
- Anchor is two modern 3/8" 5-piece also courtesy of the ASCA.
- There is no longer a piton in the horizontal break. There is good gear in the vertical crack immediately after where the piton was; the moves to get there are significantly easier than the crux moves, but still somewhat challenging. An attentive belayer might be able to keep you off the ground if you fell doing those moves, but a better plan is to not fall.
-Route is clean and high quality.
Someone could probably fill this in better as my ascent was more than 10 years ago.
Start by making a big move to get established on the face. Climb past a piton that I re-set by having my belayer toss me up a rock. Then move left into a beautiful splitter tips crack which opens up the higher you go. Piton needs re-set and the note I put in my guidebook says “needs new anchor”, so heads up on that! Remember it being a beautiful pitch.
2 Comments