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Koko B. Ware
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C0-1
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall
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"Nature Boy" Ric Flair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Beauty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brawl to End it ALL, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brutus 'The Barber' Beefcake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gorilla in Manilla T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hacksaw Jim Duggan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hidden Hand Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Koko B. Ware T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0-1 |
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Lessons in Discipline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Little Hulkster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mene Gene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Robinson's Neighborhood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Siamese Twins-Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slapping Heads T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeezed Opportunity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ted DiBiase, “The Million Dollar Man” T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Yoda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mike Robinson, Mary Anderson, and Pete Lucero 5/17/21 |
| Page Views: | 513 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Robinson on May 17, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1. Start in the flared slot just left of "Little Hulkster". Climb to the anchors on various moves with great protection (5.7).
P2. This is my favorite, Climb the corner with various stemming, crack moves, and many gear placement options. Pull the roof, move climbers right on a shelf, and climb stacked blocks to the rap anchor tree for Lessons in Discipline (5.8). Belay here.
P3. Use C0/C1 technique for 15 feet OR climb the fist crack to the left and hand traverse just below the OW then move into the OW. Taller people will have no problem freeing this at 5.8. Bring knifeblades or micronuts if you plan on doing the AID variation. Climb the OW to the top (short/cheatable 5.8). An old #4.5 BD cam is perfect.
Location
This route is climber''s left of Made in The Shade and Lessons in Discipline. Once reaching the top, climbers can hike out left down the gully or take a short rap to the tree anchor and along single rope rappel. 1 70m "SHOULD" make it, and 80m 100% will make it.
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