Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: John Sullivan, 2019
Page Views: 983 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ben Chaloupka on May 7, 2021
Admins: Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Powerful crux on small holds, and plenty of chances to fall up top. Fantastic rock quality. Requires good footwork and crimp strength. This is an Eagles classic and a benchmark for the grade. Best climbed straight up the face. Easy to access top anchors for hanging draws or TR by climbing Somewhere in Middle America or Requiem for a Dream.

UPDATE: The jug to the right of the 4th bolt has broken off (around 5/28/23), making the sequence through this section a bit harder. This route was already solidly 5.11d, so it may or may not be closer to 5.12a post-break, as Matt suggests in the comment below. More opinions will be needed to determine the current grade of the route.

Location Suggest change

Between Somewhere in Middle America and Requiem for a Dream, third line from the left on the Dream Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to sport loweroffs.

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