Rocket to My Brain
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Mike Artz, Doug Reed 1988 |
Page Views: | 669 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Gummy F on May 2, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
There are distinct cruxes, thankfully they are varied in type, a hard bouldery crux low. Slightly insecure traversing, and a balancy redpoint crux higher. This is a great route, if you fire the low crux you have the route in the bag... or you could blow off the balance section.
Location
This route starts 15 feet to the left of "I'll buy that for a dollar." Start beneath a roof, campus out on great hold, continuing up on pockets, slopers and edges (oh my) to the crux about 20 feet up. After firing the bouldery crux trend left towards the crack at midheight (a lot easier than it looks from the ground.) Follow the crack up till it peters and enjoy the fun easy romp to the bolt anchor on the left side of the large roof.
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