Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Eamonn Walsh and Mark Westman (full route); Matt Giambrone and Dean Einerson (one pitch from the top)
Page Views: 4,030 total · 90/month
Shared By: Nick AWL on May 1, 2021 · Updates
Admins: L Von Dommelheimer

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Warning Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb up steep snow to a difficult bergshrund that puts you on 55-60 degree ice. Continue up a few pitches of steepening ice to a short section of mixed climbing that puts you at the base of a narrow section of vertical ice about 100 feet long. From here another 150 feet of 60-70 degree ice puts you at the base of 400+ feet of 80 degree ice in a shallow corner. This leads to steep snow and the final rock band with thick ice laced granite runnels. Continue up and right to excavate through the summit cornice and reach the summit. 

Location Suggest change

On Mini-Mini-Moonflower, a satellite pillar on the northeast ridge of Mt. Hunter located just to the northeast of Mini-Moonflower. From Kahiltna basecamp travel east up the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier about three miles. The trip up glacier will gain about 1,500 feet as you navigate crevasses and passing under hanging seracs of Mt. Hunter.  

Protection Suggest change

Screws, set of stoppers, a few cams

Photos

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