Type: Sport, Aid, Alpine, 15 pitches
GPS: -6.58891, 107.34511
FA: Team Tjitjak (all high school students), Innosanto Nagara, 1987
Page Views: 422 total · 7/month
Shared By: Innosanto Nagara on Apr 27, 2021
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Description Suggest change

FA was a seige style climb in 1987 by a group of seven high school students from Jakarta (Innosanto Nagara, Tommy Chandra, Syahrul Rachman, David Ruus, Heru, Arief Hendro, and Robbie Irfan), supported by climbers from the Bandung-based climbing organization, Skygers (the late Sandy Febianto, Jati Pranoto, and Erik Prasetya). 

The first ascent took almost two weeks, fixing ropes daily at each high point. Ramset bolts hand-drilled on lead, so the easy parts are pretty runout and the hard parts (ie. the roof) are essentially a bolt ladder. The team ran out of bolts for the last four pitches of 5.4-5.6 climbing so the only protection on those pitches is single bolt anchors.

Not sure if the route has been repeated, and very unlikely it's been rebolted, so any protection you find at this point would be unusable.

Location Suggest change

Most obvious line up to the big roof on the West face of Mt. Parang. Where the gully meets the roof go right and then straight up the yellow overhanging face on the bolt run.

Protection Suggest change

Old old old bolts, hand drilled, 1/4" if that.

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