Full Richardson

An Oregon gem.

This route starts with 2 WI2/3 steps (snow and ice conditions depending) + moderate snow (300ft) up a distinct approach couloir on the North Face of Broken top. This leads you to the 30M crux/money pitch. The pitch - as climbed in April of 2021 - was steep white, aerated ice that made for poor pro but great sticks. It's properties more closely align with alpine ice than your typical water ice. Belay above the curtain on a picket - it is a good idea to belay off of screws below the top if you lack aforementioned picket. 

After savoring the steep ice, make your way up moderate snow climbing in the bowl above the ice. About 600 feet to summit from here. Be wary of avalanche conditions. You can traverse right and descend if you want to skip the summit pitches. The snow increases in angle to steep snow right below the summit block. The snow in the N facing gully below the summit block can be loose and unconsolidated at the very top - this can be skipped via a short horrendously crumbly mixed ramp to the right (M3). Rappel W-NW off of the summit, and down climb the NW ridge to a N facing slope which you downclimb to start your traverse East back to your gear at the base of the approach couloir.

***History***

Cliff Agocs learned about the existence of the ice formation from Pete Keane, a longtime local climber and guide (30+ years). Since at least the 90's a handful of climbers had hiked up there and found it out of condition.  At least once, the FA was thwarted because of forgotten crampons, but usually it was found to be disconnected at the top. 

He got a look at the line on the way by while guiding the North Face of Broken Top in March that year. It was fat, but it took a few weeks to nail down the time and a partner.  The day Cliff and Brandon sent, there was a heat wave in Bend and it got over 80 degrees in town, but the shaded ice was in great condition!

He called it proper WI4, which has been backed up by every subsequent ascent. Cliff did some research with the local climbers who were known to have looked at it.  From what he could learn, there was no record of a previous ascent. 

Obvious approach couloir on the North face. Should be able to partly see the ice from the base.

Ice screws including stubbies, pickets.