Deep in the Heart of Texas
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | David & Lola Carrera (January 2010) |
Page Views: | 668 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Moser on Apr 11, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
Description
Deep in the Heart of Texas is a single pitch route with an extension. Pitch 1 (5.7) consists of 9 bolts to a two-chain anchor. The Extension contains two additional bolts leading to a pair of open shuts.
The bottom portion of the climb to the two-chain anchor is roughly 5.7 with a crux roughly halfway up the wall. The wall steepens at the two-chain anchor. From the ground to the extension is likely worthy of a 5.9 rating.
Location
Located on the northwest corner of The Temple of Ishtar. The route is directly to the right of Heart and Sole.
Protection
9 quickdraws to the two-chain anchor equipped with mussy hooks located 3/4 of the way up the wall. The second pitch is very short and ends at two old school open shuts beside an enormous block.
A 60-meter rope is sufficient to rappel the route down the fall line.
A 70-meter rope can be used to lower all the way to the ground from the P2 open shuts.
Don’t forget to knot the end of your rope.
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