La Fantome de l'opera
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 11 pitches |
FA: | Michel Piola, 2016. |
Page Views: | 575 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Vivek Subramanian on Mar 31, 2021 |
Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
The route starts in the lower slab and then works up to steeper rock. You need a full rack + doubles between 0.3 and 0.75. The first two pitches are in the lower slabs, then the route traverses left (pitch 3), and then goes up the steeper main face for an additional 8 pitches.
The two critical points for route finding are the start at the lower slabs and the start of pitch 4 in the upper section. Both are clearly marked with a glued on rock painted with a cam.
Pitch 1: 6a+... pretty sketchy protection just below the anchor. When you find a spot to place protection, use it! There are bolted routes on both sides if you get into trouble.
Pitch 2: 5c: Easier slab climbing, but still somewhat run out in sections
Pitch 3: 5b Traverse to your left, following the bolts. Once the bolted line starts going up the face, keep going till you find the rock with the painted cam.
Pitch 4: 6a+: Goes up the steeper section, following a discontinuous crack and some small roofs.
Pitch 5: 5b: The angle eases off a bit... the rock is a little dirty and difficult to protect, but the climbing is easy.
Pitch 6: 5c: Traverse left... a surprising pitch which benefits from good body position while traversing
Pitch 7: 6a: Goes up a roof and some more steeper climbing
Pitch 8: 6a+: The hardest pitch... some burly moves up roofs... felt harder than 6a+, but I think I went too far left... the movement was easier to the right.
Pitch 9: 6a+: Follows a crack up, including an offwidth section behind a flake
Pitch 10 (sometimes split into two pitches for reasons that aren't apparent to me): 6a+: Go up a short section to a ledge, pass the tree anchors, and go up the next face following the cracks.
Pitch 11: 5c: An airy move, followed by easier climbing to the top.
Location
The route starts in the lower slab and then works up to steeper rock. The first two pitches are in the lower slabs, then the route traverses left (pitch 3), and then goes up the steeper main face for an additional 8 pitches.
The two critical points for route finding are the start at the lower slabs and the start of pitch 4 in the upper section. Both are clearly marked with a glued on rock painted with a cam.
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