Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
North Peak of Colossal via East Couloir
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in 1. North Faces (from Fairy Meadow)
|
|
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Outpost to Spire Traverse/ Quadrant Spire T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
NW Ridge Quadrant with Rabbit Ears Arete (s) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13 |
|
|
Houdini’s Needle "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
|
|
Pythias, Damon and Friendship Col T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
|
North Face Sentinel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Steep Snow R |
|
Magog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Sentenel Peak - Shoofly Arete of North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+ |
|
|
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1 |
|
|
Adamant - North Ridge via Variation of Kaufman Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2 Mod. Snow |
|
|
Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
|
|
Mt Austerity - East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow |
|
|
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1 |
|
|
Austerity - Std Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2 Steep Snow |
|
|
Horn - SE Face and Unicorn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
North Peak of Colossal via East Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Cycle Mtn Meadow Rest Day T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA Mtn? FA route Will Merritt, Earlyn Deans, Robert Hall July 1967 |
| Page Views: | 392 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Mar 12, 2021 |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
We took off to climb Mt Enterprise, the experienced Will Merritt leading but upon reaching the cairn-less summit it was clear we were just a few feet lower than the summit of Colossal, about a couple of hundred yards to our southeast. That evening it was discussed during dinner at the hut, without any definitive decision except that it didn’t seem that we’d climbed Enterprise.
Fifty+ years later, while converting Super-8 movies to digital I noticed that from our “summit” the “colossal-looking" summit of Mt Colossal lined up with the summit of Mt Pioneer just to the right. The map showed this alignment was only possible from the “North Peak of Colossal”, and not from Mt Enterprise.
Naturally, this climb involves glacial terrain and steep snow in addition to the rock, but I forgot to "check" these boxes when I put in the climb and there doesn't seem to be a way to add them after-the-fact.
Description - From Fairy Meadow cross to the lower Granite Glacier, cross to the west below the icefall ( still there today???) then up glacier and snow slopes to the right of the East ridge of Colossal ( see map photo) up to the flat basin just below the col between Colossal and Enterprise. (Route Photo 1)
From here go left up the slope towards the couloir in the East face ( Route Photo 2) cross the ‘shrund and climb up on snow and easy rock to the summit. (Take the # of feet and # of pitches with a grain of salt!)
We descended by scrambling down rock to the col between the main summit and the north peak, then dropping down to the East ( i.e. directly in the direction towards Fairy Meadow) on rock and snow, crossing a ‘shrund and then following the crest of the “ east ridge” back to the Granite glacier.
0 Comments