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Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon
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Feeding the Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13 |
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King Arthur's Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moby Dick's Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2+ R |
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Moby Dicks Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13 |
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Queen's View- Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Stool, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Middendorf et al, 1990s |
| Page Views: | 434 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Pickren on Mar 2, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1: same first pitch as Moby Dick's Head. Climb 5.8- past 2 bolts to the center saddle without an anchor. 50 feet
move belay to small tree at southern tip of the upper ridge of Moby Dick's Tail
Pitch 2: climb over rotten and loose red rock to a shelf 5.8. 40 feet (Good luck with anchor here, best to just go to summit)
Pitch 3: climb over a very loose column feature that forms a handcrack on the right and deteriorating sugar on its left edge. Carefully make your way to a lone drilled angle, then easily run it 40ish feet to another large ledge below the 10 foot summit bulge. Climb slightly around right and then to the summit. 5.9+ 75 feet. Good anchor, bring tat.
Rap with 2 ropes to the ground.
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